The S Ridge on Snowmass is named for its distinctive, curving shape. It is also the shortest of the routes listed in Gerry Roach's book, requiring a 4x4 instead of a long backpack. I had been going back and forth on the S Ridge versus the standard Snowmass Lake route, and finally decided on the S Ridge. I like the more interesting and obscure routes on popular 14ers, for the challenge as well as the solitude.

Foto ©2003 by John C. Maki

I left home Saturday at 07:35 and drove through Evergreen to get to I-70, and headed for Glenwood Springs. Near Dotsero, smoke from the wildfire was all over the highway making for a fragrant couple miles. In Glenwood Springs I stopped at the Glenwood Brewery for a jug of Vapor Cave India Pale Ale, which would come in handy later, I surmised. Passing through Carbondale, I made the turnoff for Marble near the base of McClure Pass. Marble is an interesting little town, with all shapes and sizes of white marble chunks decorating peoples' yards. Just past the town I made the left turn for FS 315, the easier of the 4x4 roads to the Lead King Basin trailhead. Shortly after I pulled off the road to air down my tires to 15 psi, and disconnect the front swaybar links. As soon as I pulled over a traffic jam ensued, with one vehicle coming down the hill and an ATV and 2 Jeeps heading up the hill. It seems the normal direction of travel on the Lead King loop is clockwise, up FS 315 first then down to Crystal and on FS 314 back to Marble.

This section of road was really easy but very dusty, and the interior of the open Jeep and all its contents (myself included) were soon coated with dust. Most of the way I didn't even use four wheel drive, so a high clearance 2WD vehicle could handle it. I did use 4 low on the descent into Lead King Basin, to keep my speed down as there was no shortage of 8 year olds tearing around on dirt bikes and ATVs. I pulled off at the 9700' trailhead and got my gear together, including pouring myself a Nalgene bottle full of beer, and started hiking at 13:00. Immediately I was set upon by the lush plant growth of the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness; at times the trail was quite overgrown and I felt I was moving through a jungle. Shortly after the trailhead I signed in using the new registration system, and stuck my copy of the tag on my pack.

Making my way past a couple waterfalls, I reached Geneva Lake in about an hour and searched around for a designated campsite. A couple guys pointed one out closer to the lake, and I set up camp there. My tent sloped to my left as I lay inside, but it was a beautiful spot with a full view of Snowmass right from my tent. I filtered some water, enjoyed my beer, did some reading, took a short nap, made dinner then settled in for the night. Geneva Lake is a popular destination for families and others with no intention of climbing the peaks, and the constant chatter of a large family with teenaged girls accompanied the peaceful quiet of the wilderness. As night fell everyone retired, and it soon was as silent as if I was alone. A full moon glared in through my tent ceiling, making for an enchanting scene.

Foto ©2003 by John C. Maki

I woke several times during the night, the slope of the tent making it even more difficult than usual to get to sleep. When the sky began to lighten, I heated some water for oatmeal while still in my sleeping bag and prepared myself for the climb. At 05:50 I set out from camp, with a Camelback full of 3 quarts of water plus another Nalgene jar I planned to stash at Little Gem Lake. I left my trekking poles and ice axe at camp; from what I could see of the route no ice axe would be needed. Climbing up toward Little Gem Lake, I saw a grouse just off the trail, which ran away as I went for my camera. I reached Little Gem Lake at 06:35 and stashed my Nalgene bottle between some rocks. I then took off cross country toward the base of the S Ridge, climbing down into a gully, crossing the busy creek and working up on large talus blocks toward the ridge.

I climbed the rightmost of two couloirs to the ridge crest, and reached the ridge at 07:25. A look over the ridge revealed a steep dropoff into the basin beneath Snowmass and Hagerman Peak. I decided that I was not going for style points on this ridge, but safety and efficiency. It was clear that a number of these angular, white granite blocks were unstable, and I heard more than one shift under my weight. In many areas on the ridge, however, the blocks were solid and lichen-covered, and the scrambling on the ridge crest in these areas was delightful. I stuck to the ridge crest when conditions were good, and moved to the left off the ridge when they were less than ideal. I realized that by climbing below the ridge, the chances of pulling a large rock down onto me increased, so I took great care with my handholds and disturbed them as little as possible. I soon developed a sixth sense for the looseness of any given rock, and compensated for it by only stepping on loose rocks that had a good backup below, and by moving quickly in loose areas. Still, I was surprised a few times when a block I deemed solid shifted when I touched it.

After about an hour I was over halfway up the ridge, and I encountered the crux. A large buttress faced with smooth, slabby rock stood before me, the point where a major ridge from the west joined the S Ridge. From below the buttress, it seemed to me that I could climb up partway and pass through a keyhole onto the east side of the ridge, then regain the ridge crest. This plan worked well, although it required a couple class 4 moves over significant exposure. Once past the crux I checked out the alternative, which was to pass the buttress on the left side, and that would have required climbing way down into a loose, steep gully. From above the crux I relaxed and enjoyed the view toward Geneva Lake.

Foto ©2003 by John C. Maki

At 09:00 I reached the summit, and climbed onto the pinnacle that forms the highest point. The register cannister was missing its lid and the contents. I was alone on the summit for 15 minutes, and had a Clif Bar and enjoyed the views of Capitol Peak, Snowmass Lake, and the Maroon Bells. Another fantastic day to be on a mountain.

Foto ©2003 by John C. Maki

Soon a climber appeared from the ridge leading up from Snowmass Lake, followed by another, and another... It was a group of 7 or 8 guys climbing together. The leader of the group carried a rope, which surprised me a bit (why would you rope up there?) but he wore a t-shirt with a guide company logo, and I think he used the rope to belay up the eldest of the climbers. A couple more climbers arrived from the West Face route, which I would soon be descending, so I pressed them for information. At 09:45 I decided I'd had enough of the summit party and headed down the West Face route.

Before long, I encountered a group of three climbers climbing up the face, and I asked them about the route. They warned me of some loose areas farther down, but I expected that. Sure enough, the West Face route had its share of loose, miserable scree, dirt paths, shaky talus blocks, and snow. Had I brought my ice axe I could have made a glissade down, but it was too steep and hard when I stepped onto the snow slope to go without an axe. Near the bottom of the face I had to pass a waterfall surrounded by steep rock faces, and I found a path of sorts through a lush green area, filled with flowers and saturated moss. Below the waterfall, I continued down some scree and across a snowfield and finally reached the path leading to Little Gem Lake.

At the lake I looked for my Nalgene bottle, but I couldn't find it. Who would steal a half full water bottle stashed under a rock, I thought? A marmot, that's who. I found the bottle twenty feet away near the trail, with a chewed-off lid strap. I laughed, but then hoped they had left my camp alone as I had put all my gear in the tent instead of hanging my backpack. I reached camp at 11:50 and found it unmolested. Twenty minutes later I had packed camp and was heading down to the trailhead. I reached the Jeep at 13:00 and loaded my gear, exchanged boots for sandals and prepared for the 4x4 drive out through Crystal.

The 1.5 mile section from Lead King Basin trailhead to the junction of FS 314 and FS 315 was fun. The first part passed through thick woods above roaring Crystal River, and there were numerous pullouts and campsites. I had to cross many rock ledges and steps, which reminded me of the Colony Lakes road. The road then traversed across an open hillside, with no place to pull off in case of another vehicle. For reference, my Jeep TJ has a 2" Teraflex lift and wornout 31" BFG AT tires aired down to 15psi, and Tera front swaybar quick disconnects, and only a couple times did I have to alter my path to avoid possible ground contact with my suspension. I think disconnecting the front swaybar and airing down the tires can vastly improve any 4x4's performance, and comfort of the occupants. I reached the road junction and shuddered with the thought of turning left to Schofield Pass and the infamous Devil's Punchbowl. Instead, I turned right on the road and drove to Crystal.

          
Fotos ©2003 by John C. Maki

I pulled off at the historic Crystal Mill to get a couple pictures; sadly, the angle of the sun was not right to capture the waterfall next to the mill. I continued on the sometimes rough road to Marble, finally being allowed to pass by a GMC Jimmy and a late model Toyota Land Cruiser, both stock. Once out of Marble, I found a shady place to pull off and bring my Jeep back up to highway readiness. I reconnected the swaybar links and used a 5 lb CO2 bottle to inflate my tires - worked great!

Foto ©2003 by John C. Maki

Between Carbondale and Glenwood Springs my hat blew off at 70 mph. I noted the mileage and continued down 82 until the first turn and backtracked on a frontage road. I drove .7 miles from the turn and parked to start looking for the hat, and there it was on the shoulder! Continuing on to Glenwood Springs, I decided to stop at the Yampah Spa and partake of the vapor caves. Feeling refreshed after relaxing in the hot, humid, sulphurous caves, and taking a couple showers, I drove on home.